Living Abroad: A Few Things I've Sort of Effed Up (Part I)

In my three and a half months in Italy, I've accomplished some fairly impressive things which I can say I'm quite proud of. But I've also made some really, really idiotic mistakes, and let's be honest, those make for a more interesting read. From simple cultural differences to some kind of serious snafus, here are a few of my biggest mistakes. Take notes - you might not want to repeat these.

1. When I boarded a regional train without validating my ticket

Taking the train in Italy is super easy, and Milan Central station connects to pretty much anywhere you'd want to go. Just arrive at least 30 minutes before your scheduled departure, buy your ticket from a self-serve kiosk to avoid long lines, and you're good to go. Oh, and if you're taking a regional train, make sure to get a time stamp on your ticket before you board. Otherwise, you risk a 50 Euro fine from an angry conductor when he comes around to check tickets. He might glare at you like you're an idiot, and he might yell at you in rapid Italian. This might happen before your language skills are good enough to fully comprehend. A kind passenger might offer to translate for you, but then again, they might not. Maybe you'll just mumble something like "Mi dispiace, sono turista, non ho saputo," (I'm sorry, I'm a tourist, I didn't know). Maybe, if you're lucky, the angry conductor will let you off with a warning. Maybe. Then again, you're reading this, so of course you'll avoid such a silly mistake! And honestly, who would be naive enough to not time stamp their regional train ticket? Psht. Novice error.

Image via www.bbc.com

2. When I tried to enter the Duomo wearing shorts and a tank top

Honestly, I should have known better. Jesus doesn't like knees and shoulders make God uncomfortable. Yet in my second week in Milan, I waltzed right up to the massive Duomo door wearing my notorious hot pink J. Crew shorts and a tank top. The guard took one look at me and shook his head. It wasn't until I noticed a well illustrated sign depicting proper cathedral attire that I realized I was pretty much on par with a prostitute, at least for Catholic church standards. Save yourself a little embarrassment and a lot of time by arriving in the right clothes. 

3. When I locked myself out of the apartment

Now this was a fiasco. I spent an entire night in the very cold, very hard-floored foyer of my apartment because I was locked out. To top it off, I inadvertently attended a Latin mass at Santa Maria delle Grazie the following morning. It's too painful to recap... just read this post.

4. When I got too snap-happy in a Bergamo museum

Let this be a eulogy to a blog post that never was, because the heart of it - a few dozen fabulous pictures of amazing medieval and Renaissance art - was torn from me and unceremoniously deleted as I stood by and cried. Yes, I knew photos weren't allowed. Yes, the gallery was rather small and the guard was clearly on alert for suspicious camera behavior. Yes, I managed to capture a pre-Renaissance Botticelli anyway. I really thought I was clever, and I was already writing an introduction and some captions in my head when the guard actually grabbed my camera out of my hands and started deleting photos - somehow, she really knew her way around an Olympus EPL-5. Moral of the story: as painful as it is to abide, don't try to sneak photos. Having your precious camera ripped from your hands hurts far more. (She didn't catch my iPhone though, and this Lorenzo Monaco escaped with its life.)

5. When I packed way too much and all the wrong things

You know that saying, "pack light?" It's really sage advice. I thought I did pretty well - I got everything I wanted for 8+ months into two medium sized suitcases. Turns out, I have far more than I need. Neglected Sperrys and sundresses have since been repacked. The three new toothbrushes I brought remain untouched (did I think toothbrushes hadn't yet made an appearance on the Italian dental hygiene scene yet?) Sweaters and shirts have been replaced by far more attractive things I've purchased here in Italy's fashion capital. And then there are the things I didn't bring: comfy hooded sweatshirts, winter pajamas, and enough socks, just to name a few. However, having too many things here with me combined with separation from the rest of my material possessions has made me realize that in the big scheme of things, none of them are necessary. So I guess it's taught me a somewhat humbling life lesson. Not saying I won't be ridiculously happy to sleep in a queen-sized bed with five pillows and an enormous comforter again, though. 

Living Abroad: 10 Things to LOVE About Italy

 

So there's no Target and a severe lack of clean, free public restrooms here. But honestly whatever, because my bank account doesn't need a store full of goodies to purchase impulsively, and as for the bathrooms, well, just drink your daily 8 oz of water in the security of your own home, eh? Italy is full of things that more than make up for these minor inconveniences. Here are 10 of them - some of them obvious, others you might not have guessed.

1. Art

Obviously. But seriously. The Louvre may have Mona Lisa, but Italy has an impressive list of famous works spanning centuries. Everyone knows where the well known ones are; the Uffizi Gallery in Florence, for example, houses numerous Botticelli and Michelangelo works. But you can just as easily pop into an obscure museum or gallery in a small town and find something worth seeing, like Andrea Mantegna's Madonna and Child below. Bergamo and Padua both have impressive collections, and often times these smaller places will have works by famous names before they were famous. Sometimes, those are more interesting to see!

2. Buildings/Architecture

You'd be hard pressed to find a boring suburb with matching white fences and identical houses anywhere in Italy. No matter where you go, everything has a quaint, historical look to it. Nothing really matches, yet it all mashes together in some sort of architectural harmony. I found this especially true in Verona, where it was hard to tell if a building was from 1400 or 1900 and every colorful street corner is a photographer's dream. Here in Milan, Mussolini implemented hideous fascist architecture after WWI bombings destroyed much of the city, but there are still colorful facades and quaint little balconies to be found sandwiched between the stark grey 20th century architecture. Oh, and the cathedrals, of course.

3. Delicious pasta and convenient gelato 

I've recently done a bit of complaining about the pasta situation here in Italy. By that, I mean I ranted on Facebook that I "CANNOT EAT ANOTHER CARB!" That referred more to the fact that the go-to meal here always involves some variation on white flour and starch. However, loading up on focaccia for lunch won't make the spaghetti at dinner any less delicious! I think the biggest difference between 'real' Italian pasta and the stuff at home is in the sauce. Here, it actually tastes like you're taking a bite out of a fresh, ripe tomato instead of one that grew under the watchful eyes of Prego food scientists. Another difference is that the pasta itself is almost always al dente. And if you like cheese on top, forget that weird powdered parmesan that comes in a shaker, and don't even think about getting a bag of pre-shredded cheese to save time. That stuff tastes like shreds of mushy sodium compared to the freshly grated cheese here.

As for the gelato, well that should be obvious. Going to get ice cream back at home meant hopping in the car and getting either a) a pint of Ben and Jerry's that you swear will last you a week, although you secretly know that 'week' means 'one night,' or b) hunting down an ice cream shop that's halfway across town. Here in Italy, it's as easy as walking a block or two. No matter where you start from, you're bound to run into a gelateria far, far sooner rather than later. 

4. Accessibility 

Which brings me to my next point; Italy has proven remarkably easy to get around. Every town I've visited has been seen by foot - I haven't taken public transportation once. Keep in mind I'm walking entire cities in the span of a few hours. Cities may look daunting on a map, but they're really easily accessible by foot. As for Italy at large, the train system is easy peasy. Milan Central Station has connections to practically anywhere, making travel really simple. 

5. Not much of a language barrier

If an Italian moved to America with only very basic English skills, I think it would be a bit more difficult for them than it has been for me in Italy with, to start, basic Italian skills (I can proudly call myself intermediate at this point). Even if they were in a huge city like New York, they'd probably have to put in a little work to seek out fellow Italian speakers. But here in Italy, I've really been amazed at how many people know English. When I speak to someone, one of two things happens: 1) My Italian is alright, but my accent is obviously English and the person will just respond in English. 2) My Italian is awful and I resort to speaking in English, to which the person easily responds. Now, to be honest, this has been extremely frustrating at times. I'm trying to improve my Italian language skills, after all. But for any Americans visiting Italy whose "Ciao!" sounds like "CHOW!" it's sure to be a bit of a relief. Plus, you can always find someone looking to improve their English who will in turn help you with your Italian.

6. Leggings ARE pants!

America seems to have this constant debate about whether or not leggings are pants. That doesn't really seem to matter here. Leggings, ankle boots, and an oversized sweater or tunic seem to be nearly every young person's outfit of choice, and that is fine with me. Really, when it comes to fashion here, you can't go wrong. In Milan you'll see people dressed to the nines to get groceries, or people dressed casually eating out at a nice restaurant, but in either scenario, they look put together. To achieve both looks at once, start with leggings - they're comfortable and chic! 

7. High quality, handmade goods

If you're looking for a souvenir to bring back for your friends and family, please please for the love of God don't buy a green "ITALIA" sweatshirt or "I LOVE ITALY" keychain. Spend a day strolling around the less touristy parts of whatever town you're in and you'll eventually happen across a little shop that sells handmade leather bags, handmade jewelry, handmade clothes, handmade trinkets... you get the idea. There are plenty of stores like that here, and they all sell beautiful, unique, well-made items. 

8. Apertivo!!

So long, American happy hour. You're worthless. Here in Italy, everyone relaxes with apertivo. Between 8pm and 10pm, bars put out buffets of food, ranging from small snacks like olives and bruschetta, to entire dishes of pasta, meats, and desserts. The best part? You can eat as much as you want for free as long as you buy a drink. Depending on where you go, the cover cost of your drink will vary, but I've found they don't go too much higher than 10 euros. The pricier the drink, the better the buffet, and it still ends up being far less than you'd pay for a drink and a meal normally.

9. Things are sloooooower

Compared to America, where everything is go-go-go, Italy moves at the pace of a snail. This isn't so obvious in Milan, which is considered (by Italians) more of a business-oriented city. But most shops will still shut down between 1pm and 3pm for lunch, and if you go out for dinner it can be quite a long affair. People don't seem to have that "Oh my God I'm so late for work I have to rush out the door spilling coffee all over myself," mentality that we tend to get in America. They take their time with things, especially mealtimes, and they always find a moment to relax and just enjoy existing (or co-existing with a bottle of wine, I should say). 

10. Scenery

Plain and simple, Italy is beautiful. Here in northern Italy, mountains create a gorgeous backdrop for many cities, and as you go farther south the gorgeous coastline becomes the star. The canals in Venice, the hills of Bergamo, Lake Como... the list is endless! The landscape is breathtaking anywhere you go, and fortunately, there are plenty of medieval towers to climb from which to appreciate the views.

Instagram Recap: November

Didn't I just post this for October? November came and went in the blink of an eye. Maybe it went so quickly because I wasn't counting down the days of class left until Thanksgiving break, or half-heartedly studying really hard for midterms. Either way, somewhere in the beginning of November I made the shift from feeling like I was visiting Italy to feeling like I was really living in Italy. Now that it's December, the countdown to my family's arrival has begun, and I can't wait to show them around!

"Dear Father Christmas, for Christmas I would please like: XBOX, but can you please bring me two because I have a sister. Thank you! A roll of paper for drawing. Oh and I forgot, can you bring me also a game for the XBOX? For example, FIFA 13? THANK YOU! Merry Christmas, Tobia Pizzoli." Tobia had a hard time coming up with things he wanted for Christmas this year - he just really wants an XBOX! He also made sure to write "a roll of paper for drawing" because he didn't want Santa to think he meant a roll of toilet paper.

I firmly believe this cat I found wandering around at Pitti Palace is the reincarnation of Cosimo de'Medici. Can't you see it in his eyes? He just has the look of a Renaissance banking lord.

This beautiful cappucino is from....McDonalds!! Have you ever seen anything so classy from a McDonalds in the States? Not that I frequent them regularly (this cappucino is probably the first McDonalds purchase I've made in 5 years) but I did notice the ones here are just nicer overall than those back home. And, understandably, they offer a vast array of coffee/espresso/cappucino drinks.

The Duomo in Milan is exquisite on sunny days! The brighter the day, the brighter the church. I don't think I'll ever get sick of walking past it on a gorgeous day, or popping inside to admire the architecture on a rainy day.

Street music in Palazzo della Repubblica in Florence

This photo already appeared in my post about Brunelleschi's dome, but I love it so... here it is again.

My friend Becky knows my love of Harry Potter, so she sent me this photo of a hand-knitted Dobby. I think it's the greatest thing ever! Don't worry, she gave it a sock, so he's a free elf.

Tobia's basketball coach pulled out all the stops for team pictures with an all-out photo shoot, which Tobia really got into. He loves football and basketball and wants to be a professional football player, but with his charisma, I think he needs to start auditioning for musicals and plays!

Not the most appealing photo, but words cannot illustrate how vicious the mosquitoes here are! Somehow, they get in the apartment and they literally eat me alive in my sleep. I've been cursed with perpetually dramatic reactions to mosquito bites and bee stings, so you can imagine my horror upon discovering Italian mosquitoes are freakishly large and aggressive.

I've been really excited to see the enormous tree I was told appears in Piazza del Duomo for Christmas, and I wasn't disappointed! This thing is massive! I have no idea how they transported it through the narrow streets and alleys of Milan, but who cares? I can't wait to see it decorated.

Speaking of Christmas trees, the apartment has been decked out as well!

The green thing on the top is from United Colors of Benneton. It used to be a comfy, cozy sweater as big as the pink one underneath. Then I washed it... hung it up to dry... and learned the hard way that wool has to be washed by hand with extra care to avoid creating a 90's crop top catastrophe.

My obsession with Christmas, as well as a few years of working at Bath and Body Works over the holidays means that I have a love and appreciation for holiday packaging. I became ridiculously excited when I saw a snowflake on the Nutella jar and biscuits in festive shapes.

St. Anthony's Basilica boasted one of the most lavishly decorated interiors I've ever seen. I got this photo before my phone died. Padua clearly wasn't my best trip, photography wise, but I might return another day to remedy that.

I took a day trip to Padua to see the Scrovegni Chapel (famously frescoed by Giotto). That took up most of my time, but I managed to hunt down the beautiful Basilica of St. Anthony. It's a gorgeous, multi-domed church, which you can't really tell from this over-filtered Instagram photo. Sadly, I forgot my real camera, so this is the best I have for now!

More Christmas decorations from around Milan!

Finally, a massive stained glass window from inside the Duomo. This photo was taken on a cloudy day, so you can just imagine what it looks like when the sun is shining. Bellissima! 

Instagram Recap: October

Time really is a strange thing... my second month in Milan has flown by, yet I simultaneously feel as though I've lived here forever. The weather has gotten a bit chillier - meaning, it's consistently in the low 60's instead of the high 60's. It's also rained quite a bit. Apparently, it doesn't snow here until mid-December. Coming from Wisconsin/Minnesota, the lack of snow will be a welcome change! Here are some Instagram favorites from October. 

Halloween in Italy: Greta and I made these pumpkin cupcakes to take to her class on Halloween. Yes, they do celebrate it in Italy, but apparently it has only just gotten popular in the past decade or so. A few storefronts were decorated and I saw a couple kids running around in costumes, but overall it's not quite as big of a deal as it is in the States.

Fall in Italy = squash, pumpkins, and chestnuts at the market down the road from my apartment. Are roasted chestnuts a thing in the States? I feel as though they must be in the bigger cities like New York, but I've personally never experienced them until coming here. All of the little street foot carts around the Duomo sell roasted chestnuts. If you've never had them, they taste...kind of like ham.

My coffee prayers were answered when I stumbled upon Arnold Coffee.

Countdown to Christmas by the ever so artistic Tobia! He loves Christmas as much as I do, if that's possible, and he's filled me in on all the holiday festivities in Milan. I'm looking forward to an enormous tree in Piazza del Duomo and lights and decorations all over the city. I also learned that in one of the buildings surrounding the Piazza, somebody plays Christmas carols from a window and is joined by a new instrument every day leading up to Christmas, until there's practically a full orchestra on Christmas Eve.

InterNations threw a party to celebrate 1,000,000 members. Or maybe it was their 10 year anniversary. Or maybe... honestly, I have no idea what it was for. I went with a friend at the last minute and therefore didn't RSVP for the event. I feigned ignorance at the door when they told me I wasn't on the list and somehow managed to sweet talk my way in. I'm glad I did, because the cake pictured above was one of the most delicious things I've ever eaten.

"Madonna and Child" by Andrea Mantega. This is a wonderfully restored original in the Bergamo art museum. Mantega was a Renaissance genius and all, but I can't help but think Jesus looks a bit...odd? Like he's all strung out on heroin or something. Maybe the Three Kings brought too much frankincense.

Sample of the words Tobia had to memorize for an English spelling test. As hard as it's been for me to truly learn Italian, it's always interesting to see it the other way around. English really is a difficult language, and trying to figure out how to explain to Tobia why coffee had a C and not a K reminded me of that. Or, as he put it: "But so many rules! Why can't one sound come from one letter?" Though I did applaud his creativity with "coke" - good use of the "ou" combination.

Ceiling frescoes in the Bergamo cathedral - definitely one of the most beautiful cathedral interiors I've seen to date.

Castelvecchio selfies in Verona

Eerie trip to the Monumental Cemetery in Milan. Multiply this photo by 1,000,000 and you'll have the massive burial ground that is the Monumental Cemetery. All of the crypts and statues are a photographer's dream. (Post coming soon!)

Pure joy after trudging up an ancient mule track to reach the crumbling ruins of the castle in Vezia, overlooking Lake Como...

...and this awesome view from the top!

Speaking of awesome views, here's Verona from the top of the Lambert Tower.

And the inside of the Verona Arena, where concert prep was taking place.

Baking chocolate chip cookies with the kids. My first baking attempt here was definitely a learning experience. First of all, measuring in grams and mL was an odd change from using cups and tablespoons. Second, the oven in the house is absolutely ancient. You have to turn on the gas and then physically light it with a flame. It pretty much just has an on/off setting; no temperature options. Needless to say, these cookies came out pretty burnt.

Finally, some confusing live street art on Via Dante. Always a good way to end another month in Milan. Really though, how is this happening...?

Living Abroad: 10 Things I Miss About America

It doesn't take long after moving to a foreign country before you develop a profound appreciation for certain things in your homeland. Some of these are pretty obvious - of course you'll miss your friends and family. Others are a bit more surprising, like things which used to annoy the hell out of you when you had everyday access to them, or things you barely even took notice of. Here are the top 10 (non obvious) things I miss about America, in no particular order.

1. Pumpkins
Around this time of year, America is invaded by armies of orange pumpkins. They find their way into our everyday lives for an entire month via coffees, lattes, breads, pies, cookies, muffins, and of course their original forms, which we promptly cut up and carve hideous faces into. While Italians do celebrate Halloween, I've been really disappointed by the severe lack of pumpkins around here. No pumpkin espressos or pumpkin pizzas. I didn't even see canned pumpkin in the supermarket when, on a whim, I walked in just to look for it. Mind you, it's not so much the literal pumpkin that I miss, it's the cozy fall feeling that you get from drinking a spiced pumpkin latte from Starbucks while you wait for your pumpkin muffins to bake.

2. Football
Growing up and throughout college, I enjoyed football. I was happy when my team won and sad when they lost. That's about it. I was never a die-hard fan, just... a fan. In fact, I recall telling somebody that I didn't think I'd miss American football in Europe. Surprisingly though, I do. I check the Packers Twitter religiously to keep updated on their games and have somehow found myself more emotionally invested in the results than I ever was at home. Like the pumpkin thing, I think it's more the general feeling of watching a game on a crisp fall day with friends that I miss, not literally watching Aaron Rodgers throw a touchdown pass. Either way, I'll be happy when I can refer to football again without having it mistaken for soccer.

3. Sandwiches
Dear God above, I really miss turkey sandwiches. My go-to lunch in America was a turkey, cheddar, avocado and tomato sandwich on wheat bread and I cannot seem to properly duplicate it here in Italy. Yes, the paninis are to die for, and I'm sure I'll miss fresh mozzarella, tomato, and basil on focaccia just as much once I return home. But right now, I'd do just about anything for a pound of sliced deli turkey from Lund's in Minneapolis.

4. Peanut butter
If these were in order, peanut butter just might be number one. I love, love love peanut butter. It is, without a doubt, the food I'd choose if I were stranded on a desert island. Now here I am stranded on a peninsula, and there's hardly any peanut butter to be found. Back at home, a 24 oz jar of Skippy would barely last two weeks with me. Here, I'm reduced to making a little 4 oz jar which cost upwards of 5 Euros last just as long. While I'm grateful I was able to hunt down said 4 oz jar of Skippy, I find myself eternally frustrated that there's nothing larger. They sell Nutella by the gallon for God's sake. WHERE ARE THE MASSIVE PEANUT BUTTERS!?

5. Coffee shops
For two years of college I lived a block away from a lovely little coffee shop. I'd go from time to time when I needed to study or write a paper (though I rarely actually accomplished any studying or paper writing). One of my dear friends would drop in all the time, and now I'm kicking myself for not accompanying her more often. It is literally impossible to locate a coffee shop here, which is frustrating, given the surplus of bars and restaurants that serve cafes round the clock. But a cozy little shop with squashy couches and free Wi-Fi? Nonexistent here. This also ties in with my ongoing battle against Italian coffee espresso. I still haven't formed an appreciation for the stuff, and while I wasn't a huge coffee drinker back home, I'd kill for a large blonde roast from Starbucks right now.

6. Netflix and Hulu
Now I'm sure you're asking yourself, "Why does she want to waste her time watching T.V. shows? She's in Italy, for God's sake!" True, but I'm not vacationing or studying abroad for a short period of time in which I should live it up every waking moment I have. I'm living and working here, I'm exhausted at the end of the day, and sometimes I just want to watch Juan Pablo on the Bachelor, okay!!?? Much to my dismay, Netflix and Hulu are "not available in my region." Thus, I've resorted to cokeandpopcorn.eu (which actually has a massive selection of free T.V. shows), but sadly, they don't have The Bachelor. I guess I'll just have a marathon waiting for me whenever I return home.

7. Free water
In America, I drank water directly from the kitchen sink, and it's free and complimentary at restaurants. Here, I'm told the tap water "isn't always good," (the vagueness is a touch worrisome) and you can expect to pay anywhere from 1-3 Euros for water at a restaurant. Families buy bottled liters of water like we buy milk and refilling a bottle is frowned upon. Now, if the tap water tends to be a bit dirty, fine, I won't drink it all the time. But I can't get behind the whole paying for water in restaurants thing. It's annoying and I miss the days when I could mindlessly bother the waiter for "more water, please."

8. Free (and clean) public restrooms
So you're going out for a day of sightseeing. Not wanting to waste the price of a metro ticket on a glass of water at lunch, you drink your fill before you leave the house. A few hours later you're at the Duomo and need to use the bathroom. First, good luck finding one. Second, be prepared to pay. Third, consider purchasing a home STD test immediately following your use of the restroom. Okay, so all that might be a bit of exaggeration, but let me just say this. Public bathrooms in Europe are few and far between, usually cost a Euro to enter, and aren't the cleanest places on earth. God bless America and our bathrooms that are polished with tax dollars.

9. The U.S. measurement system
Cooking is done in grams, bodies are weighed in kilograms, distance is measured in kilometers, and temperature is recorded in celsius. What? Math has never been my strong suit, so I'm grateful for the conversion app on my iPhone. But it can get a bit tiresome converting cups and tablespoons into grams for a cupcake recipe, wondering if you've gained or lost weight when you step on a scale, and being momentarily freaked out when you check the weather and see it's going to be twenty degrees that day.

10. Target
After much Googling and asking around, I have come to the devastating conclusion that Milan does not have an Italian version of Target. Nowhere in this city does a structure exist that houses fashionable clothing at a reasonable price, home decor that makes you feel like a grown up, and Archer Farms brand food that looks healthy but really isn't. I suppose this is for the best; after all, I don't need any designer Missoni clad fashionistas glaring at me as I walk down Via Montenapoleone in my Target brand Missoni shirt, but still. I miss utter bliss of wasting time in Target with a friend, each of us vowing to stick to our lists but always leaving with a few extra Chobanis, a new mascara, or on those crazy days, a new set of sheets. Target, I think of you often. Know that no matter where in the world I am, you are forever in my heart.

**Edited to add: Problems 1 and 6 have been solved!! A friend in America is sending me a pumpkin spice latte in the mail, and two people have offered solutions to get around my Netflix/Hulu woes. Thanks guys!! :)